Bell peppers are heat-loving summer vegetables that are pest-resistant and disease-resistant. Did you know that a green pepper is the same pepper as a red pepper? They're simply harvested at different stages. See how to start, grow, care for, and pick your sweet peppers!
About Bell Peppers
Peppers have a long growing season (60 to 90 days), so most home gardeners buy starter pepper plants at the garden nursery rather than grow them from seed. However, you can start pepper seeds indoors if you want to grow your own. Northern gardeners should warm the outdoor soil by covering it with black plastic as early as possible in late winter/early spring.
Red and green peppers are good sources of vitamin C, some vitamin A, and small amounts of several minerals. They're wonderful raw in salads or as a snack with dip or hummus. You can also stuff peppers with rice, seasoned bread crumbs, or meat and bake them.
Note that peppers can be divided into two categories: hot and sweet. Much of the growing advice is the same. That said, we also have a growing guide for hot peppers!
row peppers in a space with full sun and well-draining, moist (but not wet) soil. Plant peppers in a spot where they will get at least six hours of direct sunshine every day. A balance between sandy and loamy soil will ensure the soil drains well and warms quickly. Mix large amounts of organic matter (such as compost) into the soil, especially when working with heavy clay.
Avoid planting peppers in places where you've recently grown other nightshade family members-such as tomatoes, potatoes, or eggplants-as this can expose peppers to disease.
When to Plant Peppers
To start peppers indoors in pots, sow seeds 8 to 10 weeks before your last spring frost date.
Plant pepper starts or transplants outdoors about 2 to 3 weeks after the threat of frost has passed and the soil has reached 65°F (18°C).
How to Start Peppers Indoors
To start indoors: Start pepper seeds 1/4 of an inch deep, three to a pot filled with potting mix. For faster germination, maintain soil at 70°F (21°C) or above. To achieve these sorts of temperatures, you'll probably need a heated propagator or heat mat and some grow lights.
Ideal conditions should see seedlings appear within about two weeks, but some varieties take as long as five weeks, so don't give up on them too soon! Thin out the weakest seedling; let the remaining two pepper plants in each pot grow as one. The leaves of two plants help to protect the peppers.
If seedlings become leggy or too tall before it's time to plant outside, replant them in a bigger pot up to their lowest leaves, just like tomatoes, to help support them. Keep seedlings warm with plenty of light until you're ready to plant. If the plants have around five to eight leaves and you can see roots at the drainage holes, it's time to move them up a pot size.
Be sure to harden off the seedlings about 10 days before transplanting outdoors, as peppers are very sensitive to cool temperatures. Before planting peppers outdoors, acclimatize plants to outdoor conditions by placing them in a sheltered spot outside for gradually increasing periods over two weeks. Take care to avoid frosts. Plant out only after your last expected frost date has passed.
How to Plant Peppers Outdoors
If you're buying pepper starts, choose ones with straight, sturdy stems, 4 to 6 leaves, and no blooms or fruit. To harden off pepper plants, set plants outdoors a week or more after the frost-free date or when the average daily temperature reaches 65°F (18°C).
Before transplanting in the garden, mix aged manure and/or compost into the soil about 8 to 10 inches deep and rake it several times to break up the large clods.
Put transplants into the ground once the soil temperature has reached 65°F (18°C). Speed up the warming of the soil by covering it with black plastic or a dark mulch about a week before you intend to plant.
It is best to transplant peppers in the evening or on a cloudy day. This will keep the plants from drying too much and wilting.
Make the transplant holes 3 to 4 inches deep and 12 to 18 inches apart in the row. Space the rows 2 to 3 feet apart. Before planting, fill the holes with water and let it soak in. Into each planting hole, put two or three wooden matchsticks (for sulfur) and 1 teaspoon of low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer (too much nitrogen will reduce the fruit set).
When pulling the transplant out of its tray or pot, be gentle and leave as much soil as possible around the roots. Set the transplants about one inch deeper than they were in their original container. Fill the hole with soil and pack it loosely around the plant. Leave a slightly sunken area around each plant to hold water.
Water the plants after planting.
Using liquid fertilizer material (manure tea or starter fertilizer) is usually beneficial at this time.
Stake now to avoid disturbing the roots later. If necessary, support plants with cages or stakes to prevent bending. Try commercially available cone-shaped wire tomato cages. They may not be ideal for tomatoes, but they are just the thing for peppers. Or, build your own garden supports.
GROWING
Water regularly with 1 to 2 inches of water per week. This doesn't mean shallow watering; peppers like a good dousing but should be left to almost dry out between waterings; they need that period of relative dryness. Slow, deep watering helps the root system grow strong. Do not let pepper plants wilt because this will reduce the yield and quality of the fruit. Inconsistent watering also makes pepper susceptible to blossom-end rot.
Pinch out the growing points at the top once plants reach about 8 inches tall. This will encourage plants to become bushier, resulting in more fruits.
Once they start producing flower buds, begin feeding plants regularly. Use a tomato fertilizer or other liquid feed high in potassium.
In a warm or desert climate or at the height of summer, you may need to water daily. Note that in desert regions at around 4,000 feet of elevation, sweet bell peppers often fail to develop a thick, fleshy wall.
Peppers are extremely heat-sensitive. Blossoms may drop if plants are stressed-if it's too hot (above 85° to 90°F in daytime) or cold (below 60°F at night) or if water is inadequate. Use shade cloth or row covers to avoid heat stress or sunscald (exposure to direct sun rays during hot weather, which will cause peppers to get papery, blister, or get papery).
Mulch to maintain moisture and deter weeds.
Weed carefully around plants to avoid disturbing roots.
Contrary to popular belief, spraying pepper plants with Epsom salts isn't beneficial.
